Boss Sauce
The VIP condiment that isn't even close to soy
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Shack to the Future
Want a great lunch in Old Town? Better hurry.
Young & Hungry By Rachel Kaufman
Culture Clubbed
The Folklife Festival needs to study up.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Popsicle Stickler
Carman fairly gushes over Teatro Goldoni.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Franchise Player
Hamburgers at the Cheesecake Factory, decent vegetarian, good cheap sushi, and other surprises
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Oceans Apart
A perfectly stormy dispute at Tackle Box
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
A Tale of Two Cookies
Who has the better cookie: NYC or D.C.? We do, but let's not quibble.
Young & Hungry By Jule Banville
Cub Paradise
Great Ethiopian's in the 'burbs, right across from the KFC.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
The Vendor Trap
The gig is up for some of Maryland's pupusa trucks.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Hail to the Chivo
Because we've all had our share of leathery goat
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Net Gain
Our critic goes dishing at the Tackle Box and the dog food aisle.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Fridge Festival
Equinox chef shows some shelf reliance inside Carman's kitchen.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Sandwich Bored
If bologna's fat Italian father can't save lunch, who can?
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Hard Times Cafe
News Bites from dining around town
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Family Style
Hank's Oyster Bar expands, but not at the cost of employees' home lives
Young & Hungry By Melissa McCart
Formaggio Meets Function
Hyattsville's Italian Inn still gets the magic of a well-made meatball.
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Wake Up Crawl
Does anyone eat breakfast anymore?
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Comida Central
Why are Salvadoran and Mexican cuisines forever entwined?
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Forsake the Dockside
Marina restaurant owners split; in Silver Sring, fine foods without a Whole lotta hassle
Young & Hungry By Tim Carman
Restaurants, Briefly
Marvin
Belgian, American
U Street/Shaw: 2007 14th St., Washington, NW
$$$$
On a U Street corridor that increasingly bows before the almighty bar—where the cocktail menu serves as a sort of bottomless collection plate—Marvin is one of the few operations that dares to show ambition in the kitchen. Chef James Claudio mixes soul food with Belgian and American fare in a noisy, high-energy space that attracts an equally wide-ranging clientele—black and white, young and old, powerful and drunk. Of course, sometimes Marvin’s reach is beyond its grasp. Take the joint’s frequently bitch-slapped $15 burger, which is now priced at a recession-sensitive $14. The first time I tried the sandwich, it was overcooked and dwarfed by its chewy, brioche bun; the last time I sampled it, it was undercooked and overwhelmed by an onion bun. I can’t say this any clearer: A hamburger should have good beef flavor, above everything else. Likewise, the big, honking plate of chicken-and-waffles tries too hard with the unwelcome addition of Brussels sprouts. The mussels, however, are top-notch, large and flavorful, though the small bowl in which they’re served doesn’t showcase the seafood well; the mussels resting atop the pile tend to exude an unpleasant fishiness, which is fortunately remedied with a quick dip in the shallot/white wine broth (among others here). The accompanying frites are nearly perfect, crisp and spuddy, even if the kitchen too often sends out dipping sauces that have congealed in place. The best dish I’ve had here is, surprisingly enough, the Alaskan halibut with tomato confit and beurre blanc; the rich, acidic sauce and accompaniments never overpower the moist, sweet fish flesh, which is a harder feat than you may think. Marvin even does its beer service better than many. The owners have recently hired Chris Surrusco, who’s installing a Belgian-rich brew menu, similar to the one he put together at Dr. Granville Moore’s. It’s just one more reason to put Marvin high on your list.
(Washington City Paper review: Tim Carman)
Levi's Port Caf<#142>
Soul Food, Barbecue
Capitol Hill: 1102 8th St. SE, Washington, DC
$$$$
Located just a few blocks down from Barracks Row, Levi’s too often gets overlooked among the dining options in the historic neighborhood, no doubt because owner and chef Johnny Kersey still doesn’t have a liquor license at his soul food and barbecue outlet. Kersey’s lack of firewater forces him to take a different approach to peddling his plates; he perpetually has a steam table set up in his nautical-themed dining room near the Navy Yard, where locals drop in and pile up their to-go containers with fried chicken, collard greens, mac ‘n’ cheese, and cornbread. The take-out option is convenient, but you really shouldn’t miss the chance to hang out at Levi’s. The vibe is relaxed and the food home-style. Kersey smokes up North Carolina-style barbecue. His pork is chopped so fine it’s practically minced, which gives the meat a balled, cottony texture; the pork’s dominate flavor is not smoke, but rather vinegar and hot pepper, a sour heat that works only if you’ve never tasted Texas ‘cue in your entire pathetic life (sorry, I don’t let go of my biases easily). I far prefer the pork ribs, which are approximately the size of those turkey legs that dirty wenches gnaw on at RenFen; the ribs are coated in an excellent barbecue sauce, its tang and sweetness a nice counterpoint to the smoke and char of the meat. The sides vary in quality—the mac ‘n’ cheese may be nothing more than a plate of overcooked, under-sauced elbow pasta, but the salty, pliable, savory collards are the best in the District, bar none. But no matter what you order here, the plates will be ferried to your table by some of the friendliest wait staff around, folks who always ready to chat about any subject you’d like. Well, save for one: Kersey’s ‘cue. They never spill the secrets to the boss’ barbecue.
(Washington City Paper review: Tim Carman)
Gladys Knight and Ron Winan's Chicken & Waffles
Soul Food
: 860-E Capital Centre Boulevard, Largo, MD
$$$$
Gladys Knight and Ron Winans’ Chicken & Waffles sits with the other big-box eateries on “Restaurant Row” at—take a deep breath—the Boulevard at the Capital Centre in Largo. Knight’s place is an expansive, high-ceilinged operation with a full bar, original artwork, and a small stage for live music. It’s soul food’s answer to the Cheesecake Factory. There’s not much variety on C&W’s menu—mostly variations on chicken and salmon, along with a hefty assortment of hit-or-miss sides and some breakfast options. C&W’s health-conscious approach to soul food—its collards are slow-cooked with smoked turkey wings, not ham hocks—fortunately doesn’t extend to its fried chicken. The hot, tender pieces of poultry arrive on a white plate, all golden and still glistening from their dip in oil. A light coating conceals chicken that’s moist all the way to the bone. Too bad the waffle doesn’t carry its weight in C&W’s titular dish. The Midnight Train is four massive fried wings paired with a thin, malted “Original” waffle, which is baked just long enough to give the batter some form. If the goal of chicken and waffles is to match a salty, crunchy bite of bird with a sweet, crunchy bite of breakfast food, then the dish fails. Other entrees fare better: The brown-sugar salmon, a clever riff on candied yams, is a fresh fillet marinated in the sweet stuff as well as in teriyaki sauce and pineapple juice. It is smoky, flaky, and moist, without drowning in sugar. The smothered chicken is another showcase for the fried bird, this time served with a creamy, bell-pepper-infused gravy. It’s the best thing on the menu.
(Washington City Paper review: Tim Carman)
Flavors Soul Food
Soul Food
Falls Church: 3420 Carlyn Hill Drive, Falls Church, VA
$$$$
Itchin’ for Grandma’s soul food but haven’t had the time to visit? Head over to Flavors Soul Food in Falls Church and eat up, ‘cause Grandma would say you’re looking like skin and bones. As one reader said, Flavors is “[n]o frills, but [has] very, very good unhealthy fried chicken, mashed potatoes, and macaroni and cheese.” One visit to the restaurant’s Web site will have you salivating. With plenty of tantalizing photos of fried chicken, fried fish, smoked pork robs and pork shoulders— “slowly smoked over real hickory wood, then pulled from the bone”—you’ll want to put on your elastic pants and dig in. Choices come in sandwich, platter, and dinner servings; platters are served with fries, cornbread or a roll, and dinners are served with your choice of any two sides, cornbread, or roll—the sides are so varied, it’ll be tough to choose among mashed potatoes, string beans, collard greens, candied yams, baked macaroni and cheese, and others. If you can, save room for dessert. Flavors serves up sweet potato pie, cobblers, and cake.
Oohhs & Aahhs
Soul Food
U Street/Shaw: 1005 U St. NW, Washington, DC
$$$$
With a name like “Oohhs & Aahhs,” you’ve got to wonder whether the moniker is all hype, but our readers seem to be unanimous: “The name says it all,” says one rater, and it “packs a big punch on food.” Another says “I love this restaurant and I keep coming back for more.” One reviewer claims that trying the lamb chops are a must: “They are the bomb.” Another rater “tend[s] to get the catfish dinner with a side of macaroni and yams…the macaroni is zesty and cheesy and the yams remind me of my mother’s sweet potato pie. I tried the croaker once, and while it has a really good flavor, the toothpick-sized bones made it a tough eat.…The place itself may not be one to go “WOW!” over, but the food is worth it for a second (or third, or fourth) helping.” “The sides here are enough to rave about. I would definitely recommend getting the collard greens, mac and cheese, and the yams (not candied).…[J]ust be prepared to enjoy a lot of grease.”
